![]() so am I to conclude that the joint and ball/gasket material suck or i did something wrong? or is it that these ball valves are just too difficult to solder, unless a pro has the magic touch? I looked this up on lowes website to notice that several othes had the same problem, and one of them seemed to be a pro. but then a pinhole leak, like 1 drop every few minutes formed with the ball housing brass joint, as seen in the pictures. I did let the thing cool after soldering before opening/closing etc.Īnyway, I got the system in as seen in the 2nd pic. Im not sure how escaping gas, inside the ball after it heats, is supposed to get out, so I left it open. The instructions say to wrap the valve in cold water and solder it while closed. Im attaching pictures to either warn someone or find the error in my methods. ![]() the job went pretty smoothly, but I either messed up with too much heat on the ball valve or I got a piece of crap valve (blue handle). I removed solder and sandclothed it down and then re-used that with a new ball valve from lowes. ![]() I was able to desolder the old valve, leaving the small 2" vertical pipe. to make the tee usable - or crack into the wall as the Pepe mentioned. And if I could get it out, I'd have to dremel file out old solder, etc. When open, this port also helps the entire 30' line drain quicker from the outside spigot.Īnyway, that makes that little piece kind of a pain to deal with - it needs to be short - i guess to minimize the vertical column of water. And then use the drain waste port to remove the vertical column of water above the valve. I think the design intent was to keep this shutoff valve as close to the HWH cold feed line to prevent freezing, as the cold line heats up a bit too when the HWH is running. part of the concern is the small 2" piece above the tee. the ball valve near the HWH heater not so much. the burst section is about 20 feet away from the valve and repaired pretty easily. here's an update, as I know you pros will enjoy the comedy of a newbie making mistakes. Many thx in advance! Much appreciated for the advice. How do i go about that? I know that are special repair pieces, but it would be nice if i could seat in a new chunk somehow, but looking for some expert answers and advice! but how to fix the pipe? Are there sleeve type copper couplings without stops, which I can slide around so I can insert a piece of pipe directly in the cut out chunk? My concern is that couplers will have an inside ring/stopper to prevent the pipe from seating more, but that will also prevent me from inserting the new replacement piece. the first pic is of the 1/2" burst pipe forcing me to do the repair on the valve. If i cannot reuse this little stub, what are my options? Shark bite? Replace with pex of some sort? the current valve is not interior to a wall and easily accessible over time for inspections, etc.ġ. Could i reuse this if i heat and wipe the solder away?ĥ. the short lower section of pipe under the failing valve has solder dripping all around it. How would I perform the valve install considering the pipes are rigid and fixed in place? I'm looking for the order of steps.Ĥ. I'm probably going to Lowes or HomeDepot for the part.ģ. if i get a new ball valve, what the best recommendation. the old valve is a 1/2 nibco S1-8 gate valve. Any ideas before i just say screw it and put in a new valve?Ģ. i made it better but its not perfect, so still "dribbles" a bit when closed. i tried to chip at it to remove and test the valve. the solder is on the top part of the valve. I have soldered pipes before but am not a plumbing professional.ġ. I have been dealing with this forever, but am now getting around to fixing it since the pipe finally burst due to incomplete ability to drain the downstream portion since the gate never fully shut. So, when you shut off the hose bib, it always had a trickle of water come through. gate valve failed because the professional plumber who apparently built the house seated the top 1/2 pipe to the valve with too much solder and it created an imperfect fit between the valve gate and the valve inside seating ring. copper pipe extends to exterior wall in garage. Long Story short: hose bib has internal gate valve shutoff in garage near hot water heater.
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